Retinoids are natural or synthetic forms of Vitamin A capable of binding to retinoid receptors. There are various forms of Retinoids used in cosmetics with the most popular being Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol and Retinaldehyde (Retinal). There is also the prescription only Retinoic Acid however it is not found in cosmetics.
Retinoids are known for their anti-aging properties, helping reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by renewing skin plumpness and elasticity providing a radiant and fresh appearance. Other benefits include:
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Reduction of pore numbers and pore size.
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Improving the skin’s texture with visible and tactile softening.
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Providing a youthful glow.
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A reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
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Acting as an antioxidant.
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Reducing sebum production.
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Improving acne breakouts and blemishes.
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Increasing hydration and a plumping effect of the skin.
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Reduces the appearance of skin discoloration.
To work their magic they have to be converted into Retinoid Acid. Retinaldehyde converts in one step. Retinol takes two and Retinyl Palmitate takes three steps. As a rule, the closer a form of Vitamin A is to Retinoic Acid, the better and faster it works.
Like this:
Retinyl Palmitate > Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic acid.
Retinyl Palmitate is often marketed as Retinol but in truth it is not and considered ineffective by most experts and therefore not an option if you are looking for effective formulations.
Therefore, Retinol and Retinal are the two main contenders if you are looking for an effective Retinoid ingredient, however there are drawbacks for both. Both are notoriously unstable. On their own they are very unstable which limits their effectiveness and are not recommended unless stabilsed. Some companies have developed inclusion complexes or microencapsulated forms to help protect and stabilise them making them more effective. The other major issue is both can be irritating to the skin. Although not as irritating as Retinoic acid they still can cause issues especially on sensitive skin.
In order to overcome these issues observed with both Retinol and Retinal a new generation Retinoid has been developed. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPA) is a next-generation anti-aging retinoid, delivering superior performance compared to retinol and other retinoid derivatives with significantly lower irritation potential. It is a retinoic acid ester, meaning that it’s directly related to retinoic acid.
The mechanism of action is advanced compared to other retinol derivatives. To interact with retinoid receptors, retinol and retinal must first be metabolically converted into the active form – retinoic acid – using several enzymatic steps as outlined above. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is unique in that it processes innate retinoic activity, binding directly with retinoid receptors without the need for metabolic conversion into more biologically active forms.
In addition, it is dermatologically tested to offer significantly less irritation potential than retinol/retinal, providing a gentle, safe and effective anti-aging retinoid. Another advantage hydroxypinacolone retinoate has over other forms of Vitamin A is ingredient stability. Thermal stress tests have shown that it will remain stable and effective in the skin for up to 15 hours.
In order for the end product to be effective even the most effective ingredients must be used at the right concentration. If it is too low it will not be strong enough to be ineffective and if it is too high it may can cause irritation. Some companies use strengths above the concentration range however once you surpass the effective concentration range any higher has little benefit except bragging rights in the marketing as many believe more is better which is not always the case.
The concentrations recommended for each of the retinoids are:
Retinoic acid 0.01-0.025%, Retinal 0.1 – 0.2%, Retinol 0.5-1%, HPA 0.1 – 0.2% (some companies use up to 0.5%).
Retinoids can be a super star ingredient if the correct form, formulation and strength are used. They work particularly well when used with Vitamin C.
