We all know that Vitamin C is great for your skin but how effective has it really been in your skin care ritual?
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has a long history of use and is one of the most researched key ingredients used in skin care. Vitamin C is the major water-soluble antioxidant found in the body and a cofactor in at least eight important enzymatic reactions. As an antioxidant it destroys free radicals which contribute towards the aging process. It also supports and maintains the skin matrix and thus prevents the appearance of wrinkles. Vitamin C is normally found at high levels in the dermis and epidermis however levels decline with age and sun damage.
Ongoing use has been shown to support collagen production, which smooths the appearance of wrinkles, it also reduces the appearance of skin discolorations and it aids the skins barrier and repair response.
Yet despite all these benefits because it is a small water-loving molecule Vitamin C ineffectively penetrates the outer fatty layers of the skin, with only about 1% of it actually being absorbed through the skin and almost never into dermis layer. Another issue is for it to absorb it requires an acidic pH that can irritate the skin. And finally Vitamin C rapidly oxidizes in the presence of water making most Vitamin C containing products ineffective as very little Vitamin C remains in the product after only a few days!
Some companies overcome this by formulating Vitamin C in an oil to prevent oxidation, however we feel these products tend to be too greasy. The Vitamin C is suspended in the oil as it cannot dissolve which limits its absorption capabilities. Others formulate Vitamin C in water free silicon base but we prefer to avoid silicon ingredients altogether which only coat the skin surface with a silicon film that offers no nutrition to the skin.
In order to overcome these short comings of Vitamin C, yet still obtain many of its benefits, several new stabilized forms have been developed. We have studied all of the new forms available and decided on using two of them in our products as we feel the research supports these being the best and most effective of all the stabilized forms we have available at this time.
These include Ethyl Ascorbate and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.
Ethyl Ascorbate is both water and lipid soluble (soluble in fats and oils) and thus its potent antioxidant effects can protect the water and lipid components of the cell. It is as effective as Vitamin C at improving the appearance of skin discoloration due to its lightening and brightening effects on the skin. It is as effective as Vitamin C at supporting collagen production but its real advantage is its ability to absorb much more effectively than Vitamin C and it even reaches into the deeper dermis layer unlike Vitamin C. It is non-acidic so therefore non-irritating to the skin and do not forget it is stable long term unlike Vitamin C!
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a lipid soluble stabilized form of Vitamin C. Being lipid soluble it absorbs more effectively than Vitamin C with over 10% being absorbed into the epidermis compared to only 1% of Vitamin C and like ethyl ascorbate it also reaches the deeper dermis layer. It is more effective than Vitamin C in supporting collagen production. It also helps brighten the skin like Vitamin C and has potent antioxidant activity.
Purchase products that contain Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: